Hawaii Moloka'i's Forgotten

Shortly after our arrival on Moloka'i, I was asked if we had made a mistake.

Fresh from lush and blooming atmosphere Honolulu, my wife and I found ourselves watching arid red soil and dry scrub. It seemed the middle of nowhere. Even the small airport reminded me of all the "runways End-of-the-earth small island I flew in the South Seas: roll-away stairs from the plane, a small, stone-throwing from the terminal and a pair of tough guysStorage on a bench.

"You are now in the country," a traveling companion told me when we landed the plane. It was an 'island on earth, the home of Oahu, he must have noticed my puzzled expression. I was amazed at how he said it, but he was proud, not apologetic.

Okay, it was not the rain forest, palm trees and white sand beaches. We decided that there were no more, really gone. So, despite its appearance initially scarce, perhaps Moloka'i was the right thing.

AAt the time, but was not very promising. Our rental car had failed, showing the airport. A call to the agency revealed that only an answering machine. So we sat on the sidewalk, wondering what to do. Finally, I got in touch with Ray Miller, who had the realtor (the Internet) we rented an oceanfront condo for the week.

"I come to fetch you," he said. Fifteen minutes later, Ray was helping us load our luggage in his somewhat battered,blue truck. He was tall, thin, white-haired, quiet, and remarkably sanguine. "Do not worry," he said, as he said, "You'll have a car."

A few minutes later we were in his office in Kaunakakai. While Ray took a phone to try and find our car is called, we went outside to look around.

As for cities go, Kaunakakai is a shame. In fact, one might with a powerful arm, literally a stone's throw from one end of town to another. We were on a singleMain road, with faded and dilapidated wooden structures lining. There was something old west, Dodge City Plumerias and coconuts. There was not even a traffic light. In fact, as we were to discover, there are no lights on the island.

Consequently, Kaunakakai blessed quiet, free from tourist traffic. At the suggestion of Ray, we went to the market across the street to buy food. As soon as we finished purchasing, as our rental car wasappeared, together with a large staff apologetic, we had an immediate discount on already low price.

All brochures say Moloka'i is "The Friendly Island." It 'was always clear why. is supported on this island where everyone knows almost everyone else, take care of everyone, including tourists. Moloka'i is like a family.

Moloka'i is the fifth largest of the Hawaiian Islands. Thirty-seven miles wide and miles long, ten, is the longest in the south limited by whiteSandy beach in Hawaii and North of the highest cliffs in the world. These cliffs plunge into cardiac arrest, about 2000 feet vertically into the sea.

In essence, what ancient Moloka'i by two volcanoes, one left at each end of the island. The center island has a saddle formed by lava flows of the two. The higher the east end of drainage most of the moisture available from the prevailing trade winds, which makes the richest and greenest island. The centralPlain and the western end are dry, dry, in fact, to the point of being deserted. Some areas were almost completely devoid of leaves.

Since most of the island is dry and not the "charm of the South Pacific islands, the tourism industry has almost completely neglected Moloka'i. The result is an 'island, where life is slow, and where Things have changed a bit 'since 1920. Weniger als 7000 Menschen leben hier, und von diesen mehr als 50% (round sagen 70%) sind der hawaiianischen Vorfahren. It' s thehigher percentage of all the islands except Niihau (privately owned island near Kauai), what more Moloka'i Hawaiian of the Hawaiian Islands.

Longer, taller, more superlatives friendly - many for a place in the world seems to have forgotten. While we were there, could be another, more windy added.

"Not so good for diving today," said Bill Kapuni. "Maybe tomorrow. You mention the morning."

I hung up and looked out the sliding glass door in coconutPalm trees and sea wind. Far from being a humpback whale jumped out of the water, his long white pectoral fins flashing in the sun. We came for snorkeling and diving and lying on the beach. This was Hawaii, after all! Unfortunately, the unusually strong trade winds make these activities were impossible. Bill Kapuni, the owner of the company only scuba on the island, we had our first dive planned for today, but was worried that making waves divers would embarrass, if notuncertain.

I began to wonder if maybe I should golf. Our condominium Kaluakoi, a tourist town at the western end of the island, just 100 meters from a barren, rocky beach with surfing. But between us and the waves had a putting green. In fact, we were in the middle of the golf course, which for a non-golfer like me is like the only vegetarian at a barbecue in Texas. But I had to admit, when I saw before me the putter putter around ita certain fascination for the concentration almost Zen-like balls were reluctant to use it to place small holes. Maybe it was the drive ideal for a quiet island. At least I would not move to the anxiety. In fact, it was difficult to imagine a better place for sports.

In the end, but we have a hard test. We had already said that the Kalaupapa overlook worth a visit, we drove toward the center of the island, then turns north toward the rocks.

I crawledso close to the edge that I could force my body to go acrophobic. Downwards. I mean, straight down. 2000 feet. Below, a dark and stormy ocean waves crashing.

To say that these are the highest cliffs in the world is nothing to say. These are just words used to categorize and classify, but can not communicate that breadth and majesty of these green walls of the old lava plunge vertically into a dark sea. The view is breathtaking. In all others in the world, this wouldbe a tourist Mecca, with souvenir shops hawking face "T-shirts and lined full of people. There were only a few people next to us. Nobody said anything, stunned into silence by the spectacle. "It's worth a stop" in fact.

Unlikely, protruding from the bottom of the rock had a tiny flat peninsula called Makanalua. Powered by a thief, late-term lava flow, the final belch of a volcano, died before he sits perfectly natural Makanalua penal colony. Isolated by steep andtreacherous cliffs on one side and high surf hit two others, a person would be left there are difficulties to escape. What exactly why the rulers of Hawaii to the ground, so decided their vote lepers.

The pain and suffering that must have taken place in this seemingly idyllic town is almost unimaginable. People with leprosy were out of their homes and families and votes in the country and often torn off in rough seas - on their own. Many drownedBefore touching the country. Those who survived lived a mean and Spartan. There was little to eat, to talk a building material, and no medical care. Then, in exile in 1873, a Belgian priest named Father Damien Makalanua arc for the marginalized. Father Damien built shelters, food maintained, healed the sick, the essence of civilization called leprosy colony in Kalaupapa. Damien himself fell victim to the plague in 1889, but his legacy remains. Todayworshiped on Moloka'i almost as a saint.

In my opinion, above the former colony seemed heaven. The beaches are pristine and the country is not exceeded. On the leeward, western side of the peninsula, the sea was calm and clear. Seemed excellent snorkeling. Kalaupapa is unfortunately off limits to all but carefully controlled tour groups. Leprosy is now curable, but some people still bear the scars and are entitled to their life and privacyIsolation.

We moved away from the precipice to precipice, and follow a path to the famous phallic rock. The ancient Hawaiians, like many elderly people were concerned with fertility. So if a natural rock looked like a foul, it was natural, of course, to embellish. Therefore, the phallic rock, off the trees atop the cliff hidden Moloka'i. Attention women: Do not visit the rock, if you want to be pregnant. This isLegend.

Moloka'i is an island full of history and legend. The Hula was here, at Mauna Loa was born at the west end. The Molokaians old were also known for their courage in war, and the island was a stronghold of the powerful Kahuna (magician). Kamehameha the Great, the first used for all the islands under one rule, Moloka'i as a training camp for his soldiers to carry. Some people also believe the ancient Hawaiians first landing in Halawa Valley, a mysticalon the eastern tip of Moloka'i.

"This is where you find your feet wet," said Pilip, sitting on a stone to remove their shoes. Only a few minutes into our hike, we had the cultural flows are in a rocky stream through the rainforest.

Pilip SoLaTor was our guide in the historic Halawa Valley, near the northern tip of the island. Our destination was the famous Moaula Falls. On the road we were learning about the ways of Pilip ancestors, the ancient Hawaiians, who had lived inValley for hundreds of years.

Once safely on the river (hence a member of our group was slightly damp before), we followed Pilip safety through thick jungle and under overhanging vines. Halawa Valley was not always so covered with lush vegetation, said Pilip us. Suddenly the whole valley was under cultivation. The first farmers had covered the bottom with a complex mosaic of terraces of taro growing, a fixed point in their diet. ThisTerraces have been carefully designed to place instead of rocks, many of which are still standing.

We stopped in one of them to search. He rose from the jungle, like an old skeleton black leather with a green colored moss. The stones fit together like puzzle pieces, solid and perfect for hundreds of years, though the Hawaiians were not metal carving tools.

A few steps more to reach Pilip recover up to a yellow, mottled fruits of a deciduous tree. "This iscalled the noni fruit, "he said." The ancient Hawaiians used it as medicine, or drink the juice as a topical treatment for cancer or for its application for burns. "He also told the kukui nut, adapted from" Candle tree ", so called because the Hawaiians were more spit wax-like, the nuts are heart-shaped on a pointed stick and light the top. As a mother, very oily, it would be a slow, steady flame and burns that offer Hawaiian night with light.

Giant monkeypodTrees, more than a hundred meters high and decorated with giant bird's nest ferns, lined the route. The air was rich damp, green smell of earth in new leaves and rotting. Surinam Cherries - tart red, heart-shaped fruit grown to the size of grapes - by chance, and every few minutes we would come to a patch of wild berries such as raspberries, sweet and ripe for the plucking.

Soon we were far from any sign of civilization. The only sounds were the gurgle of the river below us, the chirping oftropical birds and the rustle of a breeze through the dense foliage. It was easy to imagine that you walk back in time for the busiest route in the ancient Hawaiians to their secret location in the jungle. Each new set of ruins we have overcome the feeling.

Pilip raised his hand, keeps us in our tracks. 'We're going to go on a heiau,' he said. Heiaus were sacred places, the Hawaiians, their temples. "In the old days, he would immediatelyDeath to the passage of a heiau, but the current has washed the original route. He pointed to the current flows in a gorge below us. "So we have no choice." But he made clear, we must respect the earth we walk.

A moment after we had gathered around a large pile of stones. It 'was a mound, Pilip said, and were in a former City of Refuge, standing, one of many places in ancient Hawai'i. Any violators could, regardless of the crime unpunishedif he or she could make a place of refuge from registration. The refugee was then required to remain in self-imposed exile for seven years. The criminals who tried to slip out of town before their time was immediate punishment, often facing death. But after seven years, the slate is clean and the ex-offender was free to go back home and family.

I looked at the pile of stone covered with moss in front of me and asked me if the person was buried here before us, is made onlyTo die before he was seven.

We pushed by lush flower beds and rocking movements. The noise of water grew louder, until finally we got to see the waterfalls. We entered a small clearing of steep hills, covered with jungle surrounding vegetation. A high column sparkling water from a raging pure volcanic rocks can be cascaded to plunge into a dark pond. Clambered over huge boulders in front of the swirling water available. smoke billowing dampened our faces and createdRainbow in the air around us. A deep roar drowned every sound.

Standing on a large rock behind the waterfall and screams to be heard, recognized Pilip a monumental misunderstanding map. "This place is called Moaula If all the cards," he said, "but this is a mistake. The foreign cartographers have misunderstood. Falls in Hawaii, MOA" chicken "and Ula means" red ", but" red chicken "is not sense. There is no chicken red here! Instead, the real name Mo'o'ulaIf after the god lizard red Mo'o, who called secure. "

Pilip then described how the Hawaiians were prepared to swim by throwing in a cluster prepared by the leaves of TI and looked at them carefully. When it comes to washing and swimming in the pond was safe to swim. When it sank, was the god of the group of disgruntled and swimming can be dangerous.

"God lives in the cave," said Pilip and pointed to a black hole in the side of the cliff. "Everyone, give a? Swim "

Surprisingly, two brave souls shed their shirts and threw them in cold water and dark fate. But it is a red giant lizard hunting them appeared.

Too soon we're back in the direction along the valley towards Homestead Pilip and his newly planted taro fields, where we began our hike. As we retraced our steps through the jungle, I saw the sound of helicopters hovering. These were the tourists from the nearby Maui, is to see the famous valley and chicken redfalls. "

Must have been a nice view from above, I thought. But it looked to be removed and only see the surface - a luxuriant foliage of the ceiling between the high cliffs and a spectacular waterfall crashes. They could not hear the rustling of the water, feel the mist on their faces, or feel the presence of the Red Lizard, as he guarded his treasure. Neither could see the ancient ruins and feel the weight of ancient tradition and wisdom.

Paidmuch more than we have, no doubt, but had a lot 'less.

On the way back to Kaunakakai and we redirected Bill Kapuni home to take a call earlier. Since the rough waters and strong winds make it impossible to continue diving, Bill was invited to look over his work. He came out of his front door when we stopped.

Here's what Bill Kapuni: He is a giant of a man larger than life, like a Hawaiian legend, as King Kamehameha, or withgreat Duke Kahanamoku. When Bill Kapuni in a scene, all eyes are on him. But at the same time, he is kind, quiet and reserved. He speaks slowly and deliberately.

"OI pehe," he thundered from the veranda. How are you?

Pilip nudged me and whispered: "Say Maikai no '."

"Maikai No, I said. I'm fine.

Bill a big smile. "Now speak Hawaiian, huh?"

He joined theStairs, grabbed her hands again and buried in a Bear Hug Pilip. Then he invited us to where we were greeted with his Irish-American woman, Kyno, a woman, almost as big as Bill and equally big heart. The child of one year old in her arms Kyno seemed enormous. My wife and I felt like Gulliver in Brobibdinagia.

Kapuni Bill is well known for its diving operation, but there is still much more to it than cylinders and regulators. When he was younger had classic hot rods, all newthat were sought after by collectors. Now, in addition to diving, he carves out of wood. We have been told. But when we went into the living room it was clear that the truth is much more than that. To say that Bill Kapuni woodcarvings wildly understate the truth. It 's like saying that Picasso sought with oil colors.

We stopped in the middle of several exquisite works of art in local wood. These include traditional Hawaiian ceremonial drums and stabilizers were miniatures and replicas. Butovershadows everything else in the room, including Kapuni, was an impressive piece that had just completed. "This is a tribute," he told me some pride for the skill and courage of the ancient Hawaiian navigators.

This is a one unit. The work consists of a living tree and navigate two wheel drive solid, all carved by hand, all mounted vertically between the most impressive piece of craftsmanship in wood I've ever seen. Standing nearly ten meters high, shines in the calm lightBill's house, dominates the room. The smooth lines and exquisite finishes exude raw power.

Bill told us that the work was the Governor of Hawaii, sought to be provided at the residence of the governor or the Honolulu International Airport. He seemed totally indifferent about the reputation of that exposure might bring. He even seemed a bit 'puzzled by this compliment to his abilities.

It 'was an unusual position for an accomplished artist, yet completely in line withI have come to realize about the people of Moloka'i. I've always been amazed at how they were authentic. Bill Kyno, Pilip, even Ray Miller were all unpretentious, unhurried, and welcome friends and strangers.

Later, after we left the house of Bill, has Pilip us in his house, to us his collection of antiquities, and about his efforts to preserve the land and talk about the culture of his people. We drank lemonade and talk about the historyand family life and life on Moloka'i, as it was evening, and the world again.

"Moloka'i is not like any other island," Ray had said the first day we went to town.

Sitting there, completely at ease in the house Pilip, the truth of this statement was clear. Without our being aware of his, Moloka'i had worked its magic on us. Our great city of fear evaporated, so that Moloka'i bring charm and friendliness of its people to us to return to earth - the real world of flowers andSea and sky, the grass beneath our feet and the zesty scent of frangipani in our nose. The pace of the island we took a step slower and "The island of Oahu and Maui, as could ever be. He brought us back to our purpose.

Unfortunately our time is almost expired. So, the next night, our last night on the island, we decided to make a deal.

At 22:00 sharp, we were in Kaunakakai, parked in front Imamura's General Store. The road was dark and empty. We came outCar, looked around to make sure that have not been met, then our way to a dark alley at the back of Kanemitsu's Bakery. The walls were lined with graffiti-lined street and an empty beer bottle lay scattered on the sidewalk. High windows in the back of the bakery, I could see, ceiling fans, turn them and blew the faint sound of music via radio metal screens bug. A bare bulb shines light through a blue door, chipped paint.

I screwed my courage together andknocked on the door, shyly, then if he did not respond with more emphasis. Footsteps approached from inside the palace. I stepped back and held my breath. The door opened suddenly and I found myself faced with a narrow, dark-skinned man with a flip-flop sandals, dark trousers, a dark blue t-shirt and a scowl. He was covered from head to toe in flour.

I gulped.

"Bread?" I asked timidly.

The man nodded. "WhatWhat do you want? "His voice was rough.

"What?" I asked, sticking to the script I was given.

He grimaced and muttered some variety. Most were not decipherable, but I knew what to order.

Cinnamon butter, "I said.

The door shut in my face. A moment later he reappeared with a hot loaf of bread in his hand. I handed the money away and we have sunk. Others began to arrive, the money in hand andAnticipation on their faces. We sat in the car and swallowed hot, delicious bread.

As the island of Molokai itself was better than what we were told.